1) Ideally most disposable filters should be replaced once a month. They should be replaced with filters of the same type and size as the original filter. 2) Media filters have more surface area and therefore are designed to last somewhat longer. They are designed to last anywhere from 90 days to 6 months depending on the filter and the condition of the space and air that is pulled through it. 3) Electrostatic or washable filters need to be hosed down once a month. 4) Permanent filters should be cleaned according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Filters are all different and made for different needs. A cheap disposable filter may filter enough out of the air to prevent the unit from getting dirty and clogged up. However, the higher efficiency filters such as electrostatic and media filters clean the air more thoroughly for those that need cleaner air; i.e., people with asthma, allergies, emphysema and other respiratory conditions or those who would just like to breath cleaner air.

Change or clean the filter as needed, hose down the outside condensing coils, and make sure all return vents are clean and unobstructed in your home.

In today's economy it is probably apparent that a company cannot survive by charging such low rates. More than likely your final bill will be much higher. Many of these companies charge a low rate for simply driving to your home. Then you will find that many companies will simply give you a flat cost of repairs. There are many companies out there today that thrive on selling services, parts and replacement equipment that may not be needed.

We operate with honesty and will always be open on what actual work needs to be done, give you options to best fit your needs, break out the costs so that nothing is hidden and that you are not left in the dark.

Most all brands use the same equipment, compressors, motors, etc., and most all of them will last just as long. We recommend basing your decision on price and warranty, not just name brands. However, the most important factor in buying air conditioning equipment is to use a reputable company that you feel you can trust.

We suggest you have your system checked once in the spring/summer and once in the fall/winter unless there are problems. These checkups can locate small problems before they turn into big problems.

You will find it will save you a little in the long run, but we would suggest that you set it no more than 5 degrees above or 5 degrees below the desired temperature you normally keep it in the house.

Only if the system is so old and inefficient that it costs you too much money to operate or if the system has problems and it is costing you too much money on repairs.

Keep the filters clean, the condensing coils (outside) clean, and make sure there is proper attic ventilation, insulation and window covering on all windows and make sure the weatherstripping is intact and properly seals around doors. (The more windows and doors, the more air conditioning the house is going to need.) Changing incandescent bulbs and other high heat producing bulbs to LED will help lower the heat load on the home, lessening the demand of air conditioning. Solar screens are also not a bad idea on windows with an east or west exposure.

Usually the thermostat should be set to "auto" because the fan operates only when the temperature requires it. This is the most efficient setting. The only advantage to using the "on" setting is that the air is constantly filtered, resulting in an even temperature throughout the house. Keep in mind, however, that this will lessen the life of the motor in the long run.

It is not necessary as air conditioners are built to withstand the outdoor environment and last for quite some time; however, if you have a gas furnace you can buy covers that are sold specifically to prevent ice, water and leaves from building up in the condenser. Heat pumps operate year-round and therefore should never be covered.

We recommend that shrubs and flowers be no closer than 2 feet from the unit to allow for proper air circulation. Without room for air circulation, the unit can overheat, placing a strain on the compressor and every component in the outdoor unit. Additionally, placing shrubs or fencing, etc. too close to the condensing unit will cause the outdoor coils to get prematurely dirty and require more frequent cleaning and thus affecting the actual efficiency of the system. Just remember the key to successful air conditioning is AIRFLOW and that includes the inside over the evaporator coil as well as outside over the condensing coil.

This will depend upon many factors such as refrigerant used, SEER rating, age and condition of indoor equipment and ability to match outdoor and indoor equipment properly. Many times you will be given several options from which you can decide.

The United States government requires an efficiency rating of all air conditioning and heating equipment. The numerical rating reflects the percentage of energy used efficiently, with the highest rating indicating the highest efficiency. Air conditioning equipment is rated by the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating, or SEER. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the unit.

A quick rule of thumb is 1 ton per 500 sq. ft. on an older home that was built to less stringent building standards and required much less insulation in the attic and walls creating a greater heat load on the home requiring more air conditioning demand.

As homes became built with better building standards such as thicker and better insulation, windows went from single pane to double pane and then to gas packed thermal windows, and then the attic load was reduced by installing radiant barrier, the rough calculation went to roughly 1 ton per 600 square feet.

A proper design load should have been performed prior to the initial installation. It is crucial to get the load design right from the start to avoid problems down the road.

Gas furnaces are rated according to their Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, or AFUE. The higher the AFUE rating, the more efficient the unit.